Traveling to Japan has always been at the very top of Rey’s bucket list. His addiction to anime, interest in ninjas, and obsession with Japanese cuisine including (but not limited to) ramen, BBQ, curry, and sushi, made this country his dream destination. This trip was a long time coming and one that was met with much anticipation and high expectations. I’ll just say, Japan absolutely delivered. Once at the top of our “to visit” list, Japan is now at the very top of our “must return to” list. We were both blown away and captivated by the stimulating culture, incredible culinary experiences, immense history, deep spirituality, mesmerizing energy, and vibrant lifestyle.
Our Japanese adventure kicked off in December 2022 in the iconic city of Tokyo! Picture this: neon lights everywhere, bustling streets, lightning-fast trains, and endless entertainment and shopping. We were quite literally overwhelmed our first few hours! Oh, and by the way, if you don’t speak Japanese, buckle up because English speakers are a bit of a rare find. Getting lost a few times in those enormous transit centers? Yep, totally part of the experience. But once you settle in and embrace the chaos, the real adventure begins!
Where we stayed
Tokyo is made up of districts, sort of like New York City boroughs. They all have their distinct characteristics and unique points of interest. Trying to decide where to stay was probably one of the harder decisions we had to make but we eventually decided on Shibuya. Shibuya is considered the heart of the city and is synonymous with Shibuya crossing (the famous crazy crosswalk). As first timer visitors, we felt this was a safe bet to allow us easy access to all the popular spots.
For lodging, we booked the TRUNK Hotel, a trendy, chic hotel with modern furnishings and clean, sleek lines. The lobby hosts a cafe during the day where hip locals come to lounge, sip coffee, and work on their laptops. In the evenings, the lobby turns into a bar lounge where a DJ sets the mood for visitors to enjoy cocktails and socialize. The hotel restaurant, TRUNK Kitchen, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Having breakfast at your hotel is key since nothing really opens until 11 am. On occasion, the hotel will host an outdoor market selling items made by local artisans like food, art, and jewelry. It really was the jack of all trades. Restaurants and shops nearby and an 8-min walk to Harajuku or the train station. Can’t go wrong!
Preface
Typically we organize our content by "Things We Did" and "Where We Ate" but for Tokyo we think it made more sense to organize by district. We hope that family and friends can easily find our recommendations when they're in the area.
Shibuya
We would describe this area as the heart of the city with most of the attractions and popular for first time visitors. Points of interest: Shibuya crossing, Shibuya sky observation tower, Harajuku/Takeshita street, designer brand stores/shopping,
Meiji Jingu shrine - The first shrine we visited! Our flight arrived in Tokyo at 6am so nothing was open, it was super cold, and we had time to kill. However, I highly recommend starting off your Japan adventure with a visit to a temple. Before entering the Meiji Jingu shrine park you'll be greeted by a giant torii gate. It's customary to bow before you enter and bow after you leave, to honor the gods and deities. Continue walking through the forest and embrace the quiet, peaceful energy you’re surrounded by. Once you arrive at the shrine courtyard, stop by the “Meoto Kusu” or “husband and wife” trees - said to bring happiness and harmony to your marriage. Head over to the main temple and ask for blessings and spiritual guidance on your trip. Bow deeply twice, clap twice, and don’t forget to make an offering. Visiting a temple really sets the tone for the magical experience you’re about to embark on.
Explore Harajuku - The main street, Takeshita street, is full of cute (a.k.a “kawaii”) shops with quirky, doll-themed clothes and shoes, anime, cosplay, dessert, and animal cafes. It’s hard to describe what you’ll find when you walk through here. The street is crowded and there’s a lot to see. I recommend setting aside at least an hour or two to walk through and browse the shops. For my anime lovers, I would highly recommend checking out Anime Store B-Point Harajuku - this was Rey’s favorite anime shop in all of Tokyo and well worth the visit. For my boba lovers, make a pit stop at Xing Fu Tang for some delicious, fresh made tapioca balls and milk tea!
Shibuya Crossing - famous crosswalk that stops cars in all directions to allow waves of people to walk through the middle of the intersection. The crosswalk is surrounded by towering buildings with lights, advertisements, and music all adding to the chaos. You’ve got to experience it at least once!
Chainsaw Man Exhibition Show - one of the most popular anime’s at the time, Chainsaw Man, hosted an exhibition show where they sold collectibles, souvenirs, and art. It’s unlikely to be there long, like most exhibition shows, they only make short appearances as a pop-up store. However, I would recommend checking online to see what other anime or pop culture exhibitions are going on while you’re in Tokyo.
Harajuku Yakiniku KINTAN - our first Japanese BBQ, a.k.a. yakiniku and another challenging experience. Our hotel concierge had suggested this place for dinner and had even made reservations on our behalf. We made our way to the restaurant and upon arrival realized that none of the menus were in English and none of the waiters spoke English either. After a mini panic attack, we successfully ordered a pre-set menu of meats and were on our way. I can’t 100% tell you what type of meat we ate but it was all very yummy.
Kura Sushi (Harajuku) - conveyor belt delivered sushi and small plates. Such a cool experience! There is a ridiculously long wait so don’t come hungry because you’ll be waiting for at least an hour or two. Tables are hidden behind paper doors, so cool!
Shibuya Nonbei Yokocho - similar to Omoide Yokochō, narrow indoor hall with small izakaya stalls. Larger groups come here to socialize and enjoy food and beer. This place is just as packed but easier to find seating. We ordered dumplings, salad, a gyudon bowl, and Asahi beer on draft.
Ichiran Shibuya - Japan’s most famous ramen chain restaurant and for good reason! Arrive before noon so you can skip the line. Order your ramen with add-ons and drinks from the vending machine before being seated at your own private stall. Wait for your ramen to be served from behind the curtain. When your food comes, the server lifts the curtain and delivers your meal. Super cool and super delicious! Plus, they're open 24-hours, so you can go any time day or night! This place has to be on your Japan itinerary.
Han-no-daidokoro bettei - Japanese BBQ near Shibuya crossing, this was our last meal on our 3 week adventure, on our final night in Tokyo before heading back to California. It was the perfect way to end our trip. I still have dreams about this meal - the wagyu beef is to die for. All of the meats are freshly cut and prepared in front of you and served with assorted sides. Absolutely to die for!
Shinjuku
Best to experience at night when it's all lit up - known for night life, maid cafes, and bars. All famous for the Godzilla that can be seen creeping over the buildings and billboards.
Omoide Yokochō- landmark narrow alleyway filled with small restaurants and when I say “small” I mean 6 people max! This is a popular tourist destination and can get really busy during dinner time. The alley is so tiny, that you need to walk single file. On each side of the alley, you’ll find a different food stall serving small plates, called “izakaya” (think tapas). Mind you, there isn’t enough time to stop and look at the menu (not that you could read it) because there’s a line of people behind you looking for a spot to open up. You circle back 2 or 3 times before you finally find a stall that has an available seat. If the seats are at the end, everyone must stand up to let you in. You’re tucked in for the duration of your meal. Be prepared to get cozy and meet your neighbors, this place is not for the claustrophobic.
Shinjuku Golden Gai - An area of small bars clustered together with unique themes and decor. The small space of each bar leads to shared conversation and by the end of the night, you’ve made some new friends and met some interesting people. Most of the bars in this area only have room for about 5-6 people. You can’t really choose one ahead of time, so just head towards one that speaks to you. Ironically, we ended up at a vintage American-film themed bar. The bartender was lovely and the patrons were entertaining. For context, some of our bar mates included a Frenchman who worked as a high level executive for Louis Vuitton jewelry, two Swedish brothers who were half Japanese but were in Japan for the first time, and a beautiful, young bartender who shared her love life woes. What initially felt a little awkward in a claustrophobic space, ended up being a truly memorable and fun night!
Akihabara
Explore Akihabara - Anime collectible stores and Gachapon machine halls. Gachapon are capsule toy machines, similar to the ones you used to find at the pizza parlor in the US in the 90s. Super popular in Japan and they have the most interesting themes. Some Gachapon shops are 3 rooms long! If you’re looking for anime “souvenirs” this really is not the place to find it (we had better luck in Harajuku). However, if you’re looking for anime figurines, you’re in the right spot.
Tanaka Ramen - our first ramen experience in Japan! Figuring out how to order from the vending machine out front was an added challenge. Luckily, we met someone who spoke English and was able to help us figure it out. First you put your money in, then you choose your ramen, select add-ons, beverages, and print your ticket. Change is dispensed and you wait for your number to be called. They call you inside, you sit at the counter facing the chefs, hand them your ticket and wait for your meal. The ramen is phenomenal. Worth all of the anxiety.
Taito City
Senso-Ji shrine - Tokyo’s oldest temple with an iconic giant red lantern. Make sure to start at the southern end of Nakamise-dori street so that you can enter through the Kaminarimon temple gate. Once you arrive at the shrine, bathe yourself in incense, make an offering, and buy a charm asking for a specific-type of blessing. Looking for some additional Japanese wisdom? Stop by for an o-mikuji (fortune). Shake the rattle, grab a stick, take a paper from the corresponding box that matches the characters on your stick, and receive your message. Ganbatte! (Good luck!)
Nakamise-dori Street - vendors line the walkway leading to Senso-Ji shrine selling food, dessert, and souvenirs. We tried the strawberry, mochi, bean paste combo and it was delish! In our shopping bag: chopsticks, magnets, and lots of cat tchotchkes.
CoCo Ichibanya - build-your-own Japanese curry - choose your meat, veggies, and spice level. I ordered mine extra spicy and the waiter laughed! I think he was amazed when I finished my whole plate without breaking a sweat. This place is a chain restaurant and perfect for a quick lunch any day - they can be find all over Japan.
Urayasu
Tokyo DisneySea - The Happiest Place on Earth but make it Japanese! We set aside one full day for a trip to DisneySea, the uniquely Japanese Disney park that has sea-inspired rides and attractions. The food is all 10/10 - we ate chai spiced churros, and had egg rolls and chicken karaage for lunch. I would 100% recommend visiting DisneySea over Tokyo Disneyland (similar to the US version of Disneyland). However, don’t be surprised when you can’t understand any of the commentary during the shows or rides, it’s all in Japanese.
Minato City
Tokyo Tower - Japan’s version of the Eiffel tower; shopping and observation deck with glass floor. Basically department store shops and souvenirs, nothing super interesting, so maybe skip it if you’re short on time.
Tokyo is sensory overload, in the best way possible.
We left with full bellies, sore feet, and energy buzzing through our bodies. It hit all the marks and exceeded our expectations. We'll absolutely be back one day (soon). With endless sights to see, flavors to taste, and adventures to dive into, Japan should be at the top of everyone’s bucket list.
Helpful To Know About Travel In Japan
Everything is in Japanese. Be prepared to use Google translate.
We used Google maps to get us around on public transport. (not always accurate but correct 95% of the time)
Get a Suica card - public transit is easy and efficient. You’ll use both buses and trains to get around. The Suica card can be purchased at JR stations or at the airport. If you are out late, make sure to know when the last train leaves for your destination.
Taxi Drivers generally don't speak English and need the address in Japanese. Google maps has a way to show and speak out the address in their language.
No public trash cans: be prepared to hold your trash!
Train etiquette: No eating/drinking, no talking loudly, keep to yourself, wear a mask if you’re sick, give your seat to elderly or women who are pregnant/with kids.
General rule: Keep to yourself, be respectful of space, keep noise to a minimum
Try to avoid buses at rush hour - they’re CRAZY packed. It may be so packed that you’ll have to wait for the next bus. Most times, we would just squeeze ourselves in like a bunch of sardines packed in olive oil (this is totally OK).
Always carry cash - temple offerings, refill your Suica card, vending machines (Ichiran, gachapon, tourist attractions - monkey park, etc). If you need an ATM, go to 7/11 or Family Mart
Some Tokyo bars have a cover charge
Vending machine - money in first then click option (generally not in english but there may be an english menu laying near the machine if you look hard enough)
Avoid long street food lines. If you walk away from the main street, you can usually find another vendor selling the same exact thing.
Generally if someone is trying to sell you something or make you follow them into their bar/restaurant/cafe, it is a scam.
Food/restaurants in Japan are cheaper than in the US and they serve higher quality food. Eat as much as you can. Book a food/drink related AirBnb experience if you want to try many things at once and meet/get drunk with like minded folks.
Wagyu skewers sold on the streets are cheap and just as good as in the high end restaurants.
Look for speakeasies in whatever city you are in. These have the coolest vibes and best drinks. The bartenders usually speak English too because they expect tourists.
You likely won’t be able to see everything because there is so much to do and see. Explore and go with the flow - that's half the adventure. Let your heart and gut guide you. You may wander into a hidden gem that wasn’t one of the generic/overhyped locations posted on social media.
Comments